How, you ask yourself, how can I impress my one and only Schmoopy armed with only a camera and my boundless creativity?

We’ve got some great ideas to save the day and leave your S.O. positively chuffed.

Valentine’s Day Photo Ideas

Idea 1: A Day Full of Photo Discovery

Step 1: Take photos of all the lovely things you want to get for your Lil’ Darlin’. We’re told that roses and chocolates are safe bets (although personally we prefer Stephen Chow flicks).

Step 2: Print out the pictures and hide them in places where Pookums will find them throughout the day. Hide photos in her bag, her shoes, the fridge. Have one of her coworkers hide a few at work. Send her a FedEx if you have to. Include one of yourself so she knows who’s behind it all.

Step 3: When Buttercup comes home at the end of the day, give her all the gifts you took pictures of. Voila! It might be the same old stuff you got last year, but this time she’ll remember it.

Idea 2: Say it with Photos

Step 1: Take pictures of signs in your neighborhood and use them to spell out a message (for example, “U R Beauty Full”). Street signs and store signs both work, and remember you can crop away letters you don’t want.

Step 2: Print ‘em and hide ‘em as above, but number the backs so Sweetcheeks can assemble your little word puzzle at the end of the day.

Since then digital cameras have gotten a lot better. So have the photos they make. The tools available to manage photos have made digital easier than ever, too

But there are still some people who have a negative view of digital photography. So here are the Top 10 myths…exposed:

1. A digital photo is not as good as film.
   Today’s digital cameras produce great-looking photos, even in large print sizes. Film is good and improving, too. But digital easily keeps pace.
2. Digital cameras are big and heavy.
   There are a lot of small, featherweight digital cameras that have loads of features. They create top-quality photos, too.
3. Digital cameras are slow.
   For a long time, digital cameras were slower than their film cousins. Every year, digital cameras get faster.
4. Digital photography is expensive.
   Digital keeps getting cheaper. Someday soon it won’t cost any more than film.
5. It takes too long to transfer pictures to a computer.
   Get a USB or FireWire memory card reader to make quick transfers. The fastest card readers can copy three or four high-resolution JPEG photos to the computer in one second.
6. It’s hard to view and edit digital photos.
   Not any more. For example, Google’s Picasa is free — and it’s surprisingly easy to learn and use.
7. It’s hard to make prints from digital photos.
   Printing digital photos is easy. You can print at home, or on the Internet using an online photo service.
8. Prints from digital photos look bad.
   It is almost impossible to tell the difference between digital prints and traditional film prints.
9. It’s hard to organize and store digital photos.
   Google’s Picasa software lets you organize photos by category: family, friends, school, vacations, and pets. Protect your original photo files — also called digital negatives — by burning a CD and listing its contents on the disk.
10. Digital photography is too much fun.
    Sorry…this one’s true!

How one fits an oval into a rectangle may sound unimportant but, if you are interested in photographing portraits, them it will become the cornerstone of you best portraits. If you substitute the word ‘face’ for the word ‘oval’ you would easily understand my meaning. Faces are ovals in their most basic shape, so then how do you fit a face into a rectangle?

Tip: A person is a vertical subject unless they are laying down, so you should photograph them in landscape format.

Rule of Thirds

First let’s talk about photographing a single person. Where to place that person’s face has intrigued artists for centuries. All artists have faced this challenge in their lives.

The rules of thirds is probably the most accepted rule in all of photography and that being said it has its place in portrait composition as well. The rule of thirds effectively divides the photograph into nine smaller rectangles by placing two lines horizontally and two lines vertically across it. Each pair of lines divides the photograph into three equal parts. The rule of thirds typically suggests that you place the primary subject at one of the four intersection points.

For most traditional portraits, you only need the horizontal lines, so long as you remember to use the “single person is vertical rule”, then you can places the subjects eyes on the higher of the two lines and center the subject between the left and right boundaries or the rectangle. This is considered a typical portrait and is good for many applications however, it is not considered very unique and definitely not creative.

Using the two techniques above will usually result in the average viewer say “That’s a great photograph!” However these two rules alone will not take these photographs to a higher level and make them art. That will require a little bending of the rules.

In addition to placing the persons face within the rectangle, other photographers suggest that you use the rest of the photograph to reveal something more about the subject. This type of photography is often referred to as an environmental photograph and sometimes requires you to break the “single person is vertical” rule.

I have taken many thousands of portraits and the ones that I find most memorable are always more than just another pretty face. Now let’s throw out the two rules above (these should always be in our minds) and get our creative juices flowing.

Let’s Shoot

Include more than just the face of the subject. Show something that reveals more about the subject to allow the viewer to better understand them. If you need to use a horizontal frame do so, just remember that the rule of thirds still applies to horizontal fames.

Photo by Stephen Hall

Try and shoot in daylight rather than indoors. This will stop the flash going off and giving people red eye. Red eye makes people look mental. Of course, if this is the aspect of their character you are trying to capture, then that’s fine.

Photographs one or two people at a time instead of trying to get large groups together; this will give you a better chance of getting everyone smiling nicely at the same time. Big groups rarely look good when you print them because you have to stand further back and this makes the people seem small and blurry.

Never ask anyone to smile. This technique never works because it makes your subject think about what their mouth is doing. Tell them a joke or makes faces at them if need be, or just take a non-smiling photograph for a change. Now if you can catch them when they do not know that you are taking the photograph even better. If they are engrossed in something that they enjoy doing you will usually get a more natural looking photograph. If the person is truly camera shy, you may even want to try photographing them while they sleep. Ethically you may want to show them the pictures when they make up.

Timing. This is less of a problem today since wit a digital camera you can afford to get a bit carried away and take fifteen or more shots hoping on will come out right. There is no shame in this the professionals tend to get a bit trigger happy at times as well. You can also check your photos to make sure that their eyes are not closed. Remember it is not a good way of doing photography if you just randomly take photographs you should take the time to learn to watch for that perfect shot as well. If you really need to talk to them, give them time to relax or even give them a drink.

As a last resort, you can hide all kinds of blemishes by changing your photos to blank and white or sepia.

The goal of photography is to create something more than just photographs, and the search for how to get extravagant portraits is not easy. Some will never learn how to do it and for others, the process will be too painful. But for you, the one reading this article, you will be are of the likely candidates to make it. There are no promises that you will makes it, but it is a worthy goal.

Kite Aerial Photography (KAP) is a unique form of photography and from what I can tell it is a fairly unknown art form. So here is a brief overview of it and a few resources that you can look at to find more information. Most photographic books or web-pages I read assume you have a stable tripod for landscape work. In a similar way to the still life photographer spend a long time selecting the scene and composing the picture. Even with the most stable suspension system in the world this just isn’t going to happen with KAP. So when you compose the picture you do the best you can then shoot off lots of digital images. Once back on the computer you can use your instinct to select, crop, edit and stitch an image. Purists will argue that this post-processing on the computer isn’t in the spirit of photography, but I see it all as part of the art, craft, and fun of KAP.

Why bother?
KAP isn’t easy, as well as all the normal photographic considerations, you need a rig, a kite, the right wind, a kite launch site, and a greater consideration for the safety of others – why bother?

Low altitude photography can give a unique perspective on the world. In order to demonstrate this consider the following four images of Warkworth Castle in Northumberland:

From the Car Park, Warkworth Castle (English Heritage) maintains a formidable entrance across the dry-moat. This is the wide-angled view that every visitor gets of the castle from the south, with a limited view of what may lie inside.

From the kite, some of the castles secrets are revealed. The moat and walls still guard the interior, but the layout of the various buildings within becomes more obvious. Strong oblique sunshine accentuates the ramparts, and the earth mound the castle sits on. This makes the castle stand-out of the foreground.

From an airplane a further dimension is seen, with the castle’s prominent defensive position on a loop on the River Coquet. In addition the village of Warkworth can now be seen nestling behind, and filling the loop in the river.

Finally this shot has a different appeal, more of a living map than a photograph. The strategic position of the castle is demonstrated, however much of the impact of its dramatic location is lost as all relief disappears due to the height of the camera above ground. Additionally, unwanted elements in the picture (like the two bridges above the town) become a distraction.

My conclusion is that KAP, aerial and satellite images can all play to their strengths, depending on the subject matter. Each one has its own technical difficulties; however there are rewards for those who overcome them. Another important lesson is that you don’t need 1000′ of line to take a good picture, in fact I would argue that since KAP fills the low-altitude aerial photography niche, you should stick to below 500′ (local legal restrictions permitting), and play to the strength!

There is however no excuse for poor photographs, so both a technical and artistic challenge requires to be overcome.

Places and Patience
So what should you take pictures of? Good question most people take picture of things that they know well, such as their homes, however your subjects have to meet artistic as well as practical requirements before you attempt to photograph them.

Photo by Pierre Lesage

It will take time for you to learn what looks good from the air, as sometimes the simplest objects can look beautiful and beautiful objects can look boring. Most of us don’t have much experience looking down on objects from the air so the only way that we can learn what looks good in KAP is to look at other peoples galleries and come up with your own ideas from there. What you photograph will depend largely on the area you live. One good strategy is to mix impossible angles (which most KAP shots appear to be), simple subjects and vibrant color. Pick you location carefully as you are likely to spend several hours on a particular shoot.

Remember that you cannot just go out to a particular location and take great photographs; you need to take time and scout out the area. You will need to know where you are going to launch you kite from, what wind conditions will be favorable for you subject, if there are any power lines and which kite will work best to get you the desired height and angle. On top of all this you will have to be patient and wait for the correct weather conditions suitable for you shoot.

Framing Your Shot
KAP like all forms of photography follows basic rules on how to frame a picture. The most basic of these rules is known as the golden ratio. This ratio is supposed to be the most pleasing to the human eye. Generally landscape format is considered more soothing and portrait tenser.

A second principle that is well known is the rule of thirds. This principle highlights areas on interest or where lines should be placed. The subject of your photograph or interesting points should lie of these lines or be centered on the intersections of these lines. For example it is considered good practice to have the horizon on the lower line is taking a photograph of a sunset.

A third more complex principle is the golden spiral, rather than the static rule of thirds the golden spiral creates a dynamic path in the photograph for the eye to follow. This path can be used to lead the eyes from an entry point, such as a road, track or fence, throughout the photograph until you reach the subject.

In general humans find pleasure in order and symmetry, whether it’s obvious or not, and it helps lead you between the different parts in a picture.

Sun, Shade and Impossible Angles
In KAP sun is your best friend, unlike other forms of photography shadows actually help accentuate the subject that you are shooting and give it a 3D look and feel. Remember try to get as many sunny shots as possible, the better contrast and shadows will give it a much more 3D looks than on an overcast day. Try keeping the whole shadow in the frame, this can be quite a challenge as you don’t have perfect control over what you are shooting, and if possible shoot early in the morning or right before dusk as this will create longer shadows and richer colors. Do not be afraid to shoot with the sun 90 degrees to the camera; however with the more interesting angles into the sun it’s difficult to control your exposure.

Photo by KAP Chris

One thing that I enjoy doing with KAP photography is to take advantage of the fact that humans have difficulties recognizing objects from above (Toy with them a little). Show them part of a building or object, exposing just enough so to set its context and set that camera’s position in a unknown space.

One of the most challenging things is to keep the horizon flat. Keeping the horizon flat may not seem like to big of a deal since it can be fix afterwards on the computer. However, if the angle is too large then you will lose a severe amount of your final photograph while resetting the angle, this can make all the difference. Try to avoid from having objects cross the horizon unless they are one it. Even if the images don’t show the horizon try to keep objects facing the pointing the right direction as there is no natural sense of up in KAP.

Keep it Neat
Keep those edges clean, try not to have shadows or other objects intruding into you frame. Keeping the edges free from intrusions keeps the areas of interest inside the frame.

One thing that many KAP photographers don’t necessarily agree upon is whether the photography or line should be in the picture. However, I will have to leave this decision up to you. If it adds to the shot leave it in, if it doesn’t you can remove it electronically later.

Let’s get out there and get flying.

For those of you that are inspired to try this exciting form of photography here is a great site to visit for all the information you will need they also have some good images in their gallery.

Unless you have a high end DSLR, most digital cameras these days come with an array of shooting modes (including portrait mode) for a photographer to choose from when out using their camera. These shooting modes are designed to help camera owners to quickly tell their camera what type of shot they are taking to give the camera a hint at what type of effect you want.

The results that your digital camera will give you in these modes is often quite good – however they are do take the chance to be a little creative with your photography away and if you’re someone wanting to improve your photography you’re less likely to learn how to use your camera effectively by sticking to them.

So how do you set up your camera to get great Portrait shots without having to use Portrait Mode?

As with almost all questions that we explore here at Digital Photography School – this one will have a variety of answers depending upon your photographic style, the camera that you’re using and the type of portraits that you’re hoping to achieve – however let me share a few starting points that will hopefully give you some good results so that you can then start experimenting (note: it might be helpful to have read my previous post on Exposure if you’re a beginner – hopefully this will help you get some of the concepts I’m explaining below a little quicker).

Switch to Aperture Priority Mode

When I’m photographing portraits I generally switch my camera away from any of the Auto modes into Aperture Priority Mode. This enables the photographer to choose the aperture that they want to shoot at while still allowing the camera to make decisions about shutter speed (to ensure well exposed images). If you’re a more experienced photographer you might want to try out full manual mode – but Aperture Priority mode will probably do for most of us.

Choose a Large Aperture for Nice Blurry Backgrounds

The actual aperture setting that you choose when in Aperture Priority Mode will vary from situation to situation and between camera/lens setups – but in most cases you’ll probably want to start with a fairly large aperture as this will decrease the depth of field in your shots (this is what portrait mode generally does). This will help to ensure you have a nice blurry background. The beauty of this type of setting is that it leaves your subject as the only element in focus – highlighting them as the main focal point and removing any other distracting elements (read more on using aperture to get blurry background).

Keep in mind that if you have a very fast lens that choosing the maximum aperture available can decrease the depth of field to a point where some parts of the face of your subject are in focus while others are not. Also the very maximum aperture might mean you are not shooting in your lenses sweet spot. Pull it back a stop or two and you might get a slightly sharper image – the key is to do some experimenting if you have the time to do so.

Select a Low ISO for Smooth Shots

The ISO setting that you use will vary depending upon the lighting situation that you’re faced with – but in most cases you’ll want to decrease the amount of grain or noise in your shot by selecting a low ISO (I try to stick to the 100-200 range). The main thing to watch when selecting an ISO setting is what impact it has on your shutter speed. Sometimes choosing a very low ISO will mean your shutter speed is just too slow for sharp images (I’ll talk about this below). If the shutter speed is too slow at the ISO you’ve selected you’ll either need a larger Aperture or a higher ISO.

Shutter Speed

If you’re shooting in Aperture Priority mode as we’re suggesting above, the shutter speed will be selected by the camera automatically once you’ve selected the aperture and ISO settings that you want. However – if you choose to shoot in full manual mode you’ll need to pay attention to shutter speed. Because your subject is a moving one (even if they are trying to stay still) you’ll probably want to keep your shutter speed at least to 1/60 second or faster (1/125 is probably better, especially if you’re not using a tripod).

White Balance

The white balance that you will need to select when taking portraits will again vary upon the lighting conditions that you’re shooting in. Learn more about White Balance.

Focusing Mode

Many digital cameras allow the photographer to choose between a number of focusing modes. At one end of the spectrum the ‘Auto Focusing’ setting on most cameras will use multiple focusing points to determine where to focus. At the other end of things is a manual focusing mode where the photographer has complete control. In the middle is often the option to focus the camera on a single point in the frame.

While the multi point AF setting will generally get things pretty right in most normal shooting conditions, in some situations it is helpful to be able to use either manual focusing or the single focusing point options (particularly in lower light). I personally prefer the single point setting as it allows me to pinpoint the exact part of the face that I want in focus (almost always the eyes).

Metering Modes

In a similar way, many cameras allow a number of different metering modes. Once again, on many cameras this ranges from a multi point system where the whole frame is taken into consideration when working out exposure levels through to a single point metering system (spot metering) where the photographer can pin point one small part of the image that they want the exposure to be base upon. Again, I often choose a spot metering mode when shooting portraits – particularly when the subject is backlit or where there are bright or dark parts of the image that could skew the results.

Portrait photography is the life blood of its industry. It has been around since the camera was invented and its popularization. It is a challenging type of photography that requires the photographer to have ea good knowledge of lighting and composition techniques as well as the ability to understand human nature. Here are some good tips to get you started on how to set the mood of a portrait.

Portrait photography is not about capturing the physical beauty of a person. The main purpose is to reveal a person’s personality and to create stunning imagery. The reason that many people are interested in portraiture may be that every face has its own supply of unique, ever changing subject matter. I hope these tips help you with your journey into portrait photography.

1. It is extremely important that the photographer spends the time to get to know their subject and get a feel for who they are.

Alex Lee recommends Meeting and Talking with the Client before a Photo Session. ‘As a portrait photographer, I need to know my client, knowing their background, desires, pains, and motivations helps me create distinctive portraits.’

You usually only have a short period of time to get to know your subject and learn their personal style and form of expression. The longer that you have known someone the better their photographs will be. However, if you just walk into a photo session and hope to take great pictures without knowing your subject they will most likely be boring.

2. Alex Lee suggests that a portrait photographer should Give Freedom to Their Subject. ‘I give complete freedom to my client in term of clothing, makeup, and hairstyle. I give suggestions and recommendations, but will leave the decision to the client.’ This will contribute to capturing the essence of a person.

3. Any photographer knows that a subject will never sit still; as well you may not want them to look so posed. It is imperative that you start shooting at the correct time.

PhotographyTips.com helps you to choose When to Begin Taking Pictures ‘Different people have different techniques for doing this, one of which is taking a picture while the subject is planning on smiling and then take another couple while they are recovering. Or another way would be to tell a funny joke where they can’t help but genuinely laugh and smile.’

4. One of important elements in portrait composition is background. Remember that the background must compliment the subject. The subject needs to be separated from the background.

Philip Greenspun has a helpful tip on Creating a Controlled Background ‘You don’t have to build a special room to have a controlled background. There are all kinds of clever portable backdrops and backdrop supports that you can buy or build. If you absolutely cannot control the background, the standard way to cheat is to use a long fast lens, e.g., 300/2.8, that will create a soft background. Fast telephoto lenses have very little depth of field.’

5. Alex Lee recommends Using Wide Aperture and there are two reasons why: ‘I use this to enhance my images, by selecting where I want to focus. I love focusing on the eyes. I like to see the eyes shine. Another benefit of the wide-open aperture is the soft gentle feel of the photograph. The depth of field can be very selective.’

6. Malek Tips believes that Fast Shutter Speed is Vital. ‘Facial expressions can change in an instant, so make sure you can snap quickly before the moment is lost forever’.

7. You must remember to shoot portraits from many different points of view certain angles work nicer than others.

Kodak advises shooting from Eye level. ‘It’s the way we most often look at the world, so it conveys realism. Too low an angle in a close-up exaggerates the size of the nose, mouth, and chin. Too high an angle exaggerates the size of the head compared to the rest of the body.’ Still, Digital Photography

School has a fantastic tip on Photographing People From Different Angles. ‘Experiment with getting down as low as you can or find a way to climb above them and you might just find yourself discovering a new angle on your subject that adds that special something to how they express themselves in an image.’

Just remember the final angle is left up to you.

8. Kodak has a good tip on Subject placement. ‘When a person moves across your camera’s field of view, the final image usually has much more impact when the subject is off-center. Leave the open space in the direction in which the subject is headed. Similarly, if a subject is looking off to the side, it’s best to leave more space in that direction.’

9. MalekTips recommends Considering NOT Filling the Frame. ‘If you are an amateur photographer, or even one experienced with digital photography but not in the possession of an image-stabilizing and leveling device such as a tripod, it is hard to take perfectly straight photos.’

10. Kodak has a good tip on shooting Vertical Portraits. ‘The majority of people pictures are horizontal in format probably because it’s easier to hold a camera horizontally. The horizontal format does work best for most group pictures. However, a vertical image can be very effective for pictures ranging from full-length portraits to tight facial close-ups. The unexpectedness of a vertical format can also give an image added impact.’

11. Many photographers believe that the best pose for a portrait is a natural pose. Others don’t agree so much.

Titus from Photozo has a useful tip on 1-2-3 Rule Regarding the Body, Head and Eye Placement. ‘I frequently see portrait images breaking the 1-2-3 rule regarding the body, head and eye placement. In portraiture you can guarantee your subject a very boring and static image by having the body in the # 1 position, the face in the # 1 position and the eyes also in the # 1 position.’

Here is a cute Valentines idea that is sure to sweep your sweetheart off their feet. Best of all, this project will only take a minor amount of camera know-how.

To accomplish this you will need a camera that has manual settings, you don’t have to have a dSLR, many point and shoot cameras now have manual settings. To take this picture you will have to set your camera to aperture priority and use the large aperture (smallest number f/2.8, f/3.2) that you have to create a shallow depth-of-field. If you have a dSLR, remember that different lenses have different maximum apertures; this would be a great time to get out that prime lens if you have one. If your camera doesn’t have an aperture as large as f/2.8 don’t worry just use the largest aperture that your camera has and get in as close as you can to take the photo, the closer you are the shallower the DOF. You can focus on the child or the candy or even both it is up to you.

When you are done taking the photo, print it out and cut a slit at the top and bottom of the hand and slide a lollipop though the slits. Attach the card to heavier paper to give it a little more support. You can even try this with other objects such as flowers. When you are finished you will have the cutest personalized Valentine that is sure to put a smile on your sweethearts face!

Now that you are ready to head out on you winter adventure, here are some ideas to get you started. Go ahead try them all.

Color in a white world
Winter landscapes can be quite beautiful, but if you timing is just right they can be pretty dull. Try adding a little color to your photographs to liven things up, like this red umbrella in the snow.

Photo by Little Jimmy in Milwaukee

Sunrises
I understand that we aren’t all early bird, but that’s the wonderful thing about winter. The sun rises later in the day! Making this the perfect time of year for the rest of us to capture a beautiful sunrise, just remember to meter your shots on the sky side of the sun.

Photo by Janoid

Winter storm warning
It’s understandable that most photographers stay indoors. However, for those of us brave enough to venture out there are some amazing photos to be capture. To keep you gear out of the weather put a plastic bag around it and en elastic band around the lens. Don’t grumble got out have fun, just remember be safe when you are in winter weather.

Photo by WorkingSux

Snow close-ups
Fresh snowfall creates wonderful opportunities to take some brilliant portraits of loved ones and friends. Like this girl in the snow.

Photo by Maxintosh

Storm Breaks
Winter is a time of many storms, but when are those storms are clearing they make for some incredibly beautiful lighting. Just check your local weather for when a potential storm break may occur and take a shot.

Icicles
What else defines the winter more than icicles? As well making great subjects and have dramatic lines and contrast.

Photo by Dogsbody

Bare trees
Trees may not have much color in the winter time but that’s no reason to ignore them. They make great subjects for lines and patterns.

Photo by Sir Realist

Keep them moving
Skiing, snowboarding and sledding. Winter activities make for some very interesting action shots.

Photo by Markeigon

Winter scenery
Use the snow to portray everyday objects in a new light.

Photo by Peter Bower

Stuck indoors
If you happen to be stuck indoors there are still some great shots to be taken. Use the window to frame a snowy photograph or take a picture of the frost covering the window or to filter the scene.

Photo by Clarity

Holiday Lights
We all know that Christmas is in the winter, so go out and get some photos of those extravagantly lit homes.

Photo by Jeanie

In the previous post we discussed some tips and problems that a photographer might face while shooting winter landscapes on a sunny day. In this post we will discuss other types of winter photography and tips to get the most out of your winter photos.

Sunny days are wonderful for landscape photography. However, overcast days are perfect for portraits. The overcast will create diffused lighting that will help accentuate details and create soft shadows that make a person seem more natural than posed. The soft light will also prevent your subject from squinting due to the bright light. If you are looking for something a little more interesting to photograph try shooting at dusk or early in the morning.

The days in winter are short, this is not a bad thing, it does mean that you only have a few hours to find a subject (if you can scout out an area a day or two ahead of time). Winter the sunrises and sunsets are longer than normal this gives a photographer more opportunities to express their creativity or capture a stunning photograph of a sunrise. Sunset is one of the best times for winter photography. While the sun is low above the horizon it will provide sufficient lighting for photography and create long shadows that can bring out the detail in the snow.

After sunset a photographer is presented with another opportunity. Snowy landscapes illuminate brightly under light from the moon. You can also try to capture a night snowfall for a unique photo. During this time you should try to avoid using a flash and grab a tripod and set your camera to use extended exposures.

We all know that winter is a cold time and shooting at night can be that much colder. Make sure that you are bundled up correctly to avoid dreaded frostbite. Also, you should be aware that your camera is not impenetrable to the cold. Cameras are susceptible to frost, they can withstand it for about a half hour and should be put in a bag, wrapped in a warm cloth or inside you jacket so that it remains warmer than the outside conditions. You wouldn’t want a photograph of a snowy landscape to be the last photograph for your camera.

Have extra batteries:
For any professional photographer this may seem like a no brainer but for those of us that have a limited amount of batteries, we tend to not carry extras.

Alkaline batteries work well in cold weather. However, cold weather will reduce the amount of shots you can get from a single battery. It is not uncommon for them to drain in an hour or less. So carry an extra set of batteries in one of your inner pockets where they will stay warm to extend its cold-weather performance.

Fool your light meter:
Your camera’s light meter uses a gray scale for average picture taking conditions. When taking pictures of snow this can cause dull and lifeless photographs, try to over exposing your pictures by one or two f/stops.

Scared of damaging your expensive camera?
If you are scared that you may damage your nice camera go out and get yourself a one-time use camera. The built-in flash helps cut shadows cause by the bright sunlight and water-resistant models are great for shots of snowboarding, skiing and sledding, though they do not have a built in flash.

Night pictures:
Night photos tend to have a more balanced look to them and can be accomplished from the light of the moon. The landscape lights up under the light of the moon and the reflection of the snow. Just be sure to use proper nighttime photography techniques and dress appropriately; night tends to be more frigid then the day.

Keep your camera dry:
If you get a snowflake on your lens, remove it with a lint-free brush. That one water droplet can drastically reduce the quality of your photos.

Condensation:
Condensation is a big problem when taking you camera between a warm and cold environment. Try putting your camera in a zip-lock bag before going inside and the condensation will form on the bag not the camera.

Rewinding film:
If you are shooting with a film camera that automatically rewinds exposed film, in dry, cold weather, it may cause static streaking on your film. To prevent this when you are done shooting remove the batteries and bring the camera indoors to warm. Once your camera and film warm back to room temperature replace the batteries and let the film rewind.

Add a Filter:
There seems to be too many gray skies during the winter. Use a graduated filter to color the sky while leaving the foreground natural.